CLIMBING THE MATTERHORN
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Aug 27, 2021
David Snow
44.6K subscribers
More Deaths have occurred on the Matterhorn then on Everest. One of the
most beautiful and deadly mountains in the world, the Matterhorn is a mountain
of the Alps, straddling the main watershed and border between Switzerland and
Italy. It is a large, near-symmetric pyramidal peak in the extended Monte Rosa
area of the Pennine Alps, whose summit is 4,478 metres (14,692 ft) high, making
it one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe. The four steep faces,
rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points and are
split by the Hörnli, Furggen, Leone/Lion, and Zmutt ridges. The mountain
overlooks the Swiss town of Zermatt, in the canton of Valais, to the north-east
and the Italian town of Breuil-Cervinia in the Aosta Valley to the south. Just
east of the Matterhorn is Theodul Pass, the main passage between the two
valleys on its north and south sides, and a trade route since the Roman Era.
The Matterhorn was studied by Horace-Bénédict de Saussure in the late
eighteenth century, who was followed by other renowned naturalists and artists,
such as John Ruskin, in the 19th century. It remained unclimbed after most of
the other great Alpine peaks had been attained and became the subject of an
international competition for the summit. The first ascent of the Matterhorn
was in 1865 from Zermatt by a party led by Edward Whymper; it ended when four
of its seven members fell to their deaths on the descent. This disaster, later
portrayed in several films, marked the end of the golden age of alpinism. The
north face was not climbed until 1931 and is among the three biggest north
faces of the Alps, known as "The Trilogy". The west face, which is
the highest of the Matterhorn's four faces, was completely climbed only in
1962. It is estimated that over 500 alpinists have died on the Matterhorn,
making it one of the deadliest peaks in the world.
The Matterhorn is mainly composed of gneisses (originally fragments of
the African Plate before the Alpine orogeny) from the Dent Blanche nappe, lying
over ophiolites and sedimentary rocks of the Penninic nappes. The mountain's
current shape is the result of cirque erosion due to multiple glaciers
diverging from the peak, such as the Matterhorn Glacier at the base of the
north face. Sometimes referred to as the Mountain of Mountains (German: Berg
der Berge), the Matterhorn has become an iconic emblem of the Alps in general.
Since the end of the 19th century, when railways were built in the area, the
mountain has attracted increasing numbers of visitors and climbers. Each year,
numerous mountaineers try to climb the Matterhorn from the Hörnli Hut via the
northeast Hörnli ridge, the most popular route to the summit. Many trekkers
also undertake the 10-day-long circuit around the mountain. The Matterhorn has
been part of the Swiss Federal Inventory of Natural Monuments since 1983.
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